One of the most beautiful islands I’ve ever visited is Madeira and being only four hours on a plane from Ireland it’s my go to spot for winter sun. The island is a walkers’ paradise and there are a number of walking tours led by a guide for amateurs like myself. The more experienced are able to find their own way, but I’m a million miles away from that ability (pardon the pun!)
The levadas are irrigation waterways built to transport water from the north of the island to the drier south. Alongside these channels are pathways on which one can walk and the three walking tours I did, during my third visit to the island, were fabulous, but not all are for those with a fear of heights.
The minibus was full when I joined a group to walk the Levada Nova and it seemed that others like myself hadn’t a clue as to where we were going. The walk was for two hours, which is meaningless! It’s ridiculous measuring length in minutes and one passenger, when told the walk was six kilometres, bowed out!
Six kilometres to quote Maureen O’Hara from The Quiet Man is a mere stretch of the legs, but according to my fitness app the walk was a little longer. I’ve learned to pace myself and to stop to take photographs. Not snap and walk at the same time.
This is dangerous as there is a precipitous drop down the mountainside to the right and one woman, who had no head for heights found herself walking in the levada itself which is equally perilous as it can be slippery with rotting leaves.
It was glorious to be walking in the fresh mountain air and I couldn’t believe it when a couple lit up a cigarette when we stopped to admire the view. It was then I decided to stay well back from the group and lag behind and it was only later I didn't have the opportunity to tell my guide why! He was under the impression I was struggling and I wasn’t, so I hope he reads this and understands my predicament. The walk is on the level as the path circumnavigates the mountain, no going up and down. It was a fabulous walk and I’d recommend it to anyone visiting the area.
My second levada walk, the Levada Norte, was a bit more of a hike but I was delighted to team up with my guide from last year, the charming and oh so enthusiastic, Pedro. He didn’t remember me at first, but that’s not surprising when he meets thousands of people throughout the year, but as our journey continued he recalled our walk on St Stephen’s Day last year and that I was the Irish blogger who had written all the nice things about him and our walk. He made me feel guilty for not bringing him a bottle of whiskey from my home town, but I will bring him one next year!
This walk began on the edge of a deep valley and I’m glad to say my head for heights did not desert me! The terraces where potatoes, beans and other fruits and vegetables were grown are now abandoned and I wondered what would become of them in the future.
The land is still rich and fertile and it seems a terrible waste. Some of the houses had been abandoned too, which is an awful shame, but red roofed dwellings dot the mountainside and I marvel at the way people manage to navigate the winding roads and steep 45 degree slopes!
We walked through beautiful woodland, where Eucalyptus trees grow, some having fallen in recent storms but, having these trees myself, I know how resilient they are. Where one has fallen at least two more will grow. Graffiti had been carved in a rock face and I wondered if Antonio and Tina regret their once wayward action.
Occasionally one hears the sound of running water from waterfalls and, of course, the levadas themselves fill up with water.
As our walk came to a close views over the Atlantic Ocean and rooftops were spectacular. The sun came out and, on the shortest day of the year, the temperature soared to 22 degrees. My homeland was suffering the slings and arrows of stormy weather, so I counted my blessings as I enjoyed a cool beer after my exertion. I should apologise to those who were with me as the walk took two and a half hours, not two, due to me stopping and starting, taking photos and chatting to other hikers! Still, I think we all thoroughly enjoyed the morning and life is not a race.
Pedro, of course, persuaded me to do another walk on St Stephen’s Day, one of “the easiest” he told me, through Paradise Valley. I took him up on the offer and he was right. The three and a half mile walk was very easy. The water channel ran to my left, but there was far more foliage from African lilies to hide the drop to my right, which was nowhere near as steep as on my previous hikes. My fellow walkers were in no hurry, many wanting to know about the beautiful flowers ornamenting the pathway and the trees rising up into the blue-ish sky.
There was time to stop and take photographs and Pedro reminded us the best time to come to Madeira to see the flora is in March, April and May. A flower festival is held in May and I’ve made a mental note to return then as I’d like to see the parades and the celebrations.
The forecast had been for rain and thunderstorms, but the sun came out and although I set off wrapped up in a hoodie it was soon stuffed into my rucksack and I walked the last mile or so in a T-shirt. If you’ve not done a great deal of walking, this one is certainly for beginners. I found it very easy. All on the flat and no need for a head for heights – well – perhaps a little as you are half way up the mountain overlooking the village of Camancha. I visited the town when I first came to Madeira and if you are a bit of a football nerd please click on the link to learn more.
If you want to walk, it’s a good idea to bring walking poles, which have to go in the hold of an aircraft – NOT IN HAND LUGGAGE. They are viewed as weapons as many have sharp points once the rubber covering is removed. Wear good footwear and layers as the day may start off chilly, but by noon is warm and sunny. Carry a small bottle of water (as water is heavy) and a mackintosh in a lightweight rucksack. I bought rain ponchos in Funchal for less than five euros each and I didn’t need them but, had I not bought them, the heavens would have opened!
A big thank you to my guides: Pedro and Juan Carlos, and to all at Maderia Sunrise Tours for organising the walks. There are many to choose from, not only ones for beginners like me. I’m not yet confident enough yet to try anything more challenging as there are few places to sit and take a breather, unlike at home where there are seats along the beachfront or in the woods where walkers may rest.
Madeira, however, is a walkers’ paradise. Give the levada walks a go, stay safe and keep your eyes peeled. You never know what you might see.
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As stated I’ve been to Maderia before and to learn more about this wonderful island please click on the links.
This was my first walking tour with Pedro and I’d do it again. Maybe next year.
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