The Vietnam War was at its height when I was only an infant, but by the time I reached double figures I can recall asking questions about communism, the reason for the war and why there were protests. I’m sorry to say, I didn’t get many answers. It was only when I went to university did I learn more about politics, the atrocities of war and socio-economic history. I travel in order to see for myself the consequences of these.
The War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh city (previously Saigon) gives an incredible insight into the Vietnam War. More tons of artillery and bombs were dropped during the Vietnam than in World War II. One in five American soldiers went AWOL, not being able to deal with the guerilla warfare waged by the Viet Cong, and billions of dollars were spent and too many lives lost.
Treatment of POWs was intensely cruel and man’s inhumanity to man never ceases to upset me and I’ll only mention the tiger cages in which prisoners were held, suffering the extreme heat of the days and the coldness of the nights. Barely given food and water the fatalities were high.
Tanks, helicopters, bulldozers are all on display outside the museum, similar to those I have seen in a number of Vietnam War movies such as Apocalypse Now, The Deer Hunter, and Platoon.
Thanks to these movies and a few books I have read I was aware the Viet Cong dwelt in tunnels, beneath thick jungle foliage, appearing out of nowhere to attack the enemy. The Cu Chi tunnel is now a tourist attraction and I learned a great deal about the awful conditions the American soldiers were expected to endure and the life of a Viet Cong soldier within the tunnels.
The “jungle” has now been cleared somewhat, but some trenches remain, as do the mosquitos, the unforgiving heat and humidity, all of which are punishing. However my fellow travellers and I were guided around the site and shown the bamboo shelters used by the Viet Cong, which I learned meant Vietnamese Communist, and how a sense of community was created. It was a sense of belonging that seemed to appeal to the people. Due to poor education, few possibly understood the politics of communism, but being part of a group, sharing and having a purpose brought people together.
The tunnels, which were dug out by hand, ran for miles and hollowed out bunkers were where they slept, cooked, ate, made weapons, only coming up in the early morning to relieve themselves.
The entrances are surprisingly small and well concealed by leaves and foliage. One we were shown was only about 18 inches by 8 inches and only the slimmest could drop down into the darkness. Getting up was another matter entirely and some had to be lifted out, not having the upper body strength to pull themselves up! A big thank you to those who did go down into the blackness in order to show the others.
It was impossible for me to go into the tunnel and even the shortest, thinnest and fittest had hunker down, squat and wiggle their way through the claustrophobic confined space.
Fake termite mounds hid bamboo sticks which allowed air into the tunnels and water was always nearby due to the torrential storms, one of which flooded the streets of Saigon later in the day!
Not only were Vietnamese soldiers hidden beneath the jungle floor, but there were deadly traps, some of steel, some of wood, which meant many suffered unimaginable injuries and torturous deaths.
To conclude the tour, under a shelter, I was offered tea and a slice of the tapioca root on which the Viet Cong lived as supplies dwindled and the war became one of attrition. I remember tapioca from school – a terrible dessert – and it hasn’t improved as the years have gone by!
I left the Cu Chi tunnels in a very solemn state of mind, but my guide explained that his father fought in the war. He lived in the tunnels and enjoyed the comradery, even though he lost his leg.
Years later, being in the tourist industry, my guide invited Americans who fought in the war to meet his father. Relations were strained at first, but common ground was found regarding family, business, books, films, sport, and music. Over a meal, intelligent conversation, laughter and smiles resulted in understanding and forgiveness. If there is one thing I learned from this trip: after the bombs have dropped and the fighting stops, there is always the opportunity for peace.
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Vietnam is a fascinating, verdant country. To learn more of my visit please click on the links below.
A big thank you to Dean, once again, for some of his fabulous photographs, and to Kevin who demonstrated the entrance to the tunnel. It's fellow travellers like them that make touring so much more pleasurable.
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