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Chambers at Large in Peru (with Paddington) visiting the towns of Cusco, Arequipa and Juliaca

Writer's picture: Amelia ChambersAmelia Chambers

Updated: 2 days ago


Peru has to be one of the most diverse countries I’ve ever visited and I must say on several levels made me realise I’m living in paradise here in the west of Ireland. From the lush vegetation of the Amazon Rainforest my fellow travellers and I flew to Cusco where the altitude had an affect on several people including myself.  After walking a little way I became short of breath, but recovered quickly by inhaling deeply, filling my lungs, and ensuring I was fully hydrated..  Others were not so fortunate and it’s worth realising that altitude sickness has nothing to do with a person’s fitness.  Fitter people than me suffered from its debilitating effects.

I visited Cusco at the beginning of the year in order to go to Machu Picchu, but didn’t see much of the city.  I rectified this by taking a quick tour visiting the church and convent of Santo Domingo of Guzman. This impressive edifice overlooks beautiful gardens where marriage proposals are made on a regular basis.  My guide proposed to his lovely wife at these gardens where a grassy area depicts a puma, a snake and a condor.

These animals were sacred to the Incas.  The puma was seen as a symbol of strength, wisdom and intelligence.  The condor was believed to be able to communicate with the heavens whereas the snake represented the world below, or of the dead.  The church was once a sacred site for the Inca people and I was astounded by their knowledge of the Milky Way which was shown within.

I’m sorry I didn’t see much more of Cusco which is a flourishing city seen by the amount of building work being done on the outskirts probably due to the continued interest in Machu Picchu, one of the most spectacular places on Earth.  Please read my previous blog to discover more about this enchanting archaeological site which Paddington found extraordinary and would go again.

My fellow travellers and I arrived in the beautiful city of Arequipa at 6am in the morning having travelled overnight in order to avoid road closures due to a general strike. 

We spent a few hours exploring the city, admiring beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and volcanoes, visiting the cathedral and enjoying coffee in the square. 

Paddington and I loved the beautiful buildings, reminiscent of those in Europe, and a marvellous mural showing Peru’s wildlife, which we hadn’t been able to see whilst in the Amazon Rainforest. ‘Que sera, sera’, as they say! 

The city is also known as the White City and its quite clear from the photographs as to why.  All of the architecture shone in the glorious sunlight.

Our overnight journey however was not in vain as we did witness a small procession of banner waving strikers protesting peacefully outside of the cathedral and we heard of road closures elsewhere.

Better to be walking around a beautiful city than be stuck in traffic!

Moving on from Arequipa and in complete contrast is the incredible (in every meaning of the word) city of Juliaca.  Near the Peruvian / Bolivian border our guide said it was like the Wild West and laughingly played Enrico Morricone’s theme from The Good, The Bad and The Ugly as we drove on and on, along the lengthy highway, through the city.

A Western could be filmed in the roughly hewn streets, some side roads resembling dirt tracks but, as one fellow traveller remarked, it was more like a set from Mad Max (the Mel Gibson versions not the latest ones).

Three storey apartment blocks line the route, built with very little infrastructure, therefore corrugated iron latrines are stationed outside.  Imagine – no sewage system was constructed! One big reason to appreciate life at home.

At several crossroads women were selling gasoline in yellow plastic drums, ironically alongside signs stating “technology for all”.  Other people were by the side of the road hawking all kinds of goods, trade being the powerhouse that keeps the city alive and kicking.

Next to small garages, make-shift cafés and shops are huge multinational car showrooms filled with the biggest of four x four vehicles.  The dichotomy of this city is out of this world and I have to say it is one of the worst as far as litter is concerned.  The roads were cluttered with detritus, but with little government and with a population with an aversion to paying tax, it’s hardly surprising.  I’m not going to complain about the taxes in Ireland ever again!  The streets in my local towns are pristine in comparison.

Tuk-tuks seemed to be the transport of choice, there being very little public transport available even though a railway line or sorts runs through the city.

The crime rate is high so on we drove and, needless to say, we didn’t stop, not even to admire a splendid mural on an underpass.

The road finally ascends a hill out towards the desert and we were treated to a view of Juliaca which is a sight to behold.  It is vast and none of the buildings seem to be finished, but this is means of avoiding tax in Peru and has other familial significance.

Travelling certainly opens the eyes and the mind and has made me exceedingly grateful for my life at home.  Having said that Peru should be high on everyone’s list to visit.  It is an amazing country because of its diversity and nothing is more diverse than the cities of Juliaca, Cusco and Arequipa.

 

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To read about my discoveries in other parts of Peru including my visit to the Amazon Rainforest please click on the links.

 






I visited South America earlier in the year and to discover about my visit then, please click on the links:

 

 



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