I’ve recently learned the word diurnal, which is the opposite to nocturnal, and of all the places I’ve recently visited the city of Hoi An brought this dichotomy to the fore. It is city where the rather empty streets during the day contrast starkly with those at night.
Ms Tam was my guide around this startling city and, to avoid the stifling midday heat, we started on our exploration early. The narrower streets were pretty deserted, although crossing the main roads was a challenge. (Just because the lights indicated you could cross didn’t mean a scooter or tuk-tuk wouldn’t appear from out of nowhere and mow you down!)
Some of my fellow travellers were quite dismayed to discover that the Japanese Bridge, dating back to the 1700s, was undergoing renovation and we could only see the blue and white apex of the structure surrounded by wooden lattices and busy workmen. However the views of the Thu Bon River were beautiful and we made our way through the blossomed roadways to what was once a merchant’s house.
Hoi An has a history of trade thanks to the river and the merchant’s house had Chinese and French influences. Inside, on wooden beams, Chinese writing told a story of the house and small golden plaques showed the years when the water rose to levels that flooded the ground floors of buildings. It is an absolute necessity to have access to a boat and be able to swim in Vietnam as the floods can go way, way, way over one’s head.
A makeshift pulley system was installed in order to raise belongings up onto the upper floors, but it seems prudent to adopt a minimalist lifestyle when the threat of flooding is all too real.
One artefact in a cabinet was a Confucius Cup (front centre) around which is a very ponderous legend. When travelling through the desert Confucius met a man who gave him a cup from which to drink at an oasis. Using the cup he scooped up the water but when he tried to drink there was nothing there! The cup has two chambers and a small hole at the bottom. When full the water falls through. Only when the cup is 80% full (or less) will it hold water. Confucius considered this to be a lesson in life. Does everything in life have to be 100%? Do we have to have everything? Is 80% more than enough?
Pondering on that my fellow travellers and I walked a wee way down the road to a Buddhist temple, which was stunning in the mid-morning sun, the clear azure sky ensuring the temperature reached at least 35 degrees.
Altars were covered with offerings and under red lanterns I was told how parents chose the name of their children. The father would toss a coin and call out a name. The mother tossed a coin and if the coins matched, the name remained, if not the mother would toss her coin and suggest a name. If the father’s coin matched then that would be the name of the child. This procedure is repeated using different names until the coins match.
Trade still flourishes in the town, filled with a myriad of shops selling almost everything. I’d been told before my trip to enquire about made-to-measure apparel and it soon became clear I could purchase dresses, skirts, blouses, outfits of every shade and hue. I had to laugh seeing one sign telling me ‘your life may not be perfect, but your outfit can be!’ I think I know what Confucius would make of that!
I refrained from purchasing any raiment, knowing it would not be practical at home on the Emerald Isle. However, having spent many hours walking since arriving in Vietnam, I took the opportunity to have a foot massage. One hour of pure bliss for less than ten dollars.
The city comes alive at night, thronged with visitors, especially from neighbouring Asian countries. The streets are decorated with lanterns swaying in the cool breeze and bamboo boats sail along the river, rather like the gondolas of Venice. Vehicles are prohibited of an evening, allowing pedestrians to freely wander through the brightly lit streets and avail of the ice cream parlours, cafes and restaurants.
The city is famous for its cuisine and we dined al fresco that evening, moving from one eatery to another to sample the dishes. We finished up having pancakes by a bridge adorned with multicoloured neon lights and even the dogs wore headbands with flashing rabbit ears. I don’t know why these were so popular amongst the youngsters, but I did learn that the young women wore masks to keep their skin out of the sun so they remained as pale/white as possible. It is ironic white people sunbathe to give their skin a bronzed hue, whereas whiteness is highly prised amongst the Asians.
Beauty of course is in the eye of the beholder and Mrs Tam told us that black teeth were once considered beautiful. Women chewed betel nuts (still available) and used a charcoal solution to blacken their mouths. I studied a few paintings on google and have to say ‘how times change!’
To end the evening our guide bought us all paper boats on which a candle was lit and, as we took it in turns placing them on the water, we were told to make a wish. I had to laugh as these wash up onto the shore a little way down river creating a littered mess, making me wonder if the wishes also end up amongst the detritus! (Or am I being too cynical?)
Hoi An was a pleasure to visit and the hotel in which we stayed was once again out of an Agatha Christie novel. The 1930s architecture featured prominently in Hoi An Historic Hotel and breakfasting in the gardens was a great start to the day. A big thank you to my fellow travellers for a couple of the photos, to Mrs Tam for making the days so interesting, and to Mercury Holidays for organising it all. Whether you’re nocturnal or diurnal Hoi An caters for larks and owls. I’d thoroughly recommend a visit.
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Please click on the links to read about my other exploits in Vietnam, a country filled with history and culture.
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