When I visit somewhere that really interests me I like to bring home a souvenir by way of a painting or a print. (I don’t tend to buy trinkets that are sometimes called dust collectors Life is too short to be doing extra housework.) My walls are therefore adorned with memories of places I’ve enjoyed and wish to remember. Usually I buy a memento after I’ve toured a place, but I took a chance during my journey between Hanoi and Ha Long Bay when my fellow travellers and I stopped at a “school” where disabled youngsters were working, learning a trade and selling their wares. The quality of the products was very impressive and many of us dug deep into our pockets. I purchased a silk embroidered picture of a beautiful sunset crafted by Hai, which is now framed and hanging in my hallway. It is a reminder of a two day stay in the World UNESCO site I will never forget as it proved to be most eventful for a number of reasons.
Leaving the city of Hanoi in our wake, my fellow travellers and I travelled by coach on a good road passing verdant green rice paddies, banana plantations and fields of lotus blossom. But what caught my eye were the family cemeteries dotted around the countryside, not in every field, but they were noticeable by their frequency.
Some of the graves were highly decorative, others simple tombs with headstones, but questions were asked of our guide regarding burial rituals, which I always find interesting as they reveal much about a society.
In the north of Vietnam people are not particularly religious, but Buddhism, Hinduism and Christianity are practiced. I expected the dead to be cremated, but this wasn’t the case. Our guide explained that being the oldest son in his family he is responsible for the care and upkeep of his parents as well as his own family.
His parents will be buried after their death then, three years later, be disinterred. He will be responsible for cleaning their bones with an alcohol solution before reinterring them for eternity in a smaller coffin. Filial duty, it seems, is highly regarded in Vietnam, something that is beginning to diminish in western society.
Journeying through the towns I noticed the buildings are tall and narrow as there was once a tax on the size of the frontage. Houses are often divided so that the ground floor is a shop, a café, or a small garage, where people sell their goods and services, and the upper storeys are dwellings. The streets were thronged once again with people on scooters and, I’m sorry to say, littered with plastic bags and other containers.
Suddenly the heavens opened and the rain fell down in torrents. Lashing against the coach windows it was difficult to see out and within minutes the fields and streets became flooded.
Our coach driver pressed on and the streets became rivers! The local people seemed to take the horrendous change of weather in their stride. Plastic mackintoshes not only covered themselves, but their scooters. Conical straw hats were put on heads and people stood chatting knee deep in the rising water.
Our guide then received news that the entranceway to the port where we were to embark on our cruise of Ha Long Bay was flooded and buses could not drive up to the embarkation gate.
Well, this gave some of the more negative passengers something to really complain about, but I took it in my stride, removed my shoes and socks, rolled up my culottes, put on my plastic mac and waded, through the flood water, a member of staff holding an umbrella above my head to ward off some of the rain. The water wasn’t cold, but it was a muddy brown and I tried not to think about why. Instead I concentrated on not losing my footing as I certainly did NOT want to fall! I reached the dock without further incident where a small boat took my fellow travellers and I out to a cruiser: the Victory Star.
This cruiser was straight out of an Agatha Christie novel and once we had all dried off in our comfortable cabins we sailed into the bay, not being able to see very much as the rain had turned to a light mist. It was only after lunch, when the weather cleared, were we able to appreciate the novelty of the majestic sandstone karsts, covered in lush tropical vegetation, which rise out of the green waters into, what was on that afternoon, an overcast sky.
We were offered the option of walking up 300 steps or so to the top of one of the karsts to have a view of the bay, but time wasn’t on our side and I’d already decided I was going to take time out and relax on the cruise, although the sundeck was a wash out! My fellow traveller, Dean, who is half my age, did the climb and I’ve him to thank for his fabulous aerial photographs. Thanks Dean!
I would have liked to have gone to the beach, taken a dip, but it was horrendously crowded. I am used to having the beaches almost to myself at home and therefore did not feel I’d missed out in my decision to stay, rest up, sup wine and finish the day with a delicious evening meal in good company.
Up early the following morning we were taken in a twelve seater bamboo boat into a quiet grotto, where we saw small monkeys climbing up the limestone karsts, and stalactites dropping from the ceiling of a cave like tunnel.
Returning to the Victory Star a fellow traveller pointed out a small boat in which was a mother and her child. The torrential floods of the night before had washed away their food and they were seeking assistance from the cruise ships. The incongruous difference between those who have and those who have not gave me pause for thought and I am very grateful for being able to travel, enjoy good food, fine wine and live the life I do. On a happy note I believe the family were provided with foodstuffs to replace their own meagre rations.
After a fine brunch, we returned to port where the flood waters had receded and the sun came out. I could clearly see the street through which we had waded the day before, the bridge over the bay and the hotels overlooking the shore.
Ha Long Bay is a more affluent area of Vietnam, but newly built luxury apartments costing hundreds of thousands of dollars lie empty at the moment. However, the cruise ships seem to be doing well and I’d like to thank all the staff on the Victory Star for their professionalism and kind service. It’s a cruise I will never forget and, of course, I have my silk picture as a memento of my stay.
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A big thanks to fellow traveller, Pat, who shared some of her photographs with me. It's great to meet people with a similar love of travel and exploration of new places. Thank you Pat!
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My visit to Hanoi was also eventful. Please click on the links to discover more about this fascinating city.
I travelled throughout the country and had a wonderful time. To learn more please click on the links:
I mention how I may have a beach to myself when I am at home. To see this for yourself please click on the links:
I always enjoy reading about your travel adventures. I envy your beach day but not your day in the rain and floodwaters.
Linda Morrow from PA