I first came across Angkor Wat in the film Tomb Raider starring Angelina Jolie and have wanted to visit the site ever since. I can truthfully say I was not disappointed. I’ve recently made a list of places that have taken my breath away when travelling and the Hindu-Buddhist complex is high on that list.
It is considered the largest religious structure on the planet covering 400 acres (160 hectares) and comprises of over one thousand buildings. Needless to say, one day at Angkor Wat is NOT enough, but one day was all I had to explore this ancient site dating back to the 12th century.
The most distinctive feature is the main temple with its five towers which symbolise Mount Meru where, according to mythology, the Hindu gods dwell. Surrounding the complex is a moat, which represents the ocean around the mountain.
As I wanted to see the sunrise over the site I was awake at 3.30am, ready by 4.30am and was sitting on a wall by the moat when the sun rose over the façade at around 5.30am. It wasn’t the most colourful of sunrises, but it was worth the effort.
Unsurprisingly I wasn’t alone. Angkor Wat a place of pilgrimage as well as a popular tourist destination, therefore as daylight dawned the crowds increased, and by 9am the site was reasonably busy. Monkeys played on the lawns by the moat, scavenging for food and raiding the bins seeking out sweet treats left by tourists. I am wary of monkeys knowing a bite can be rabid as well as downright painful, so I’m happy to keep my distance. The creatures are wild, far from domesticated, but intrepid and resourceful.
The central temple can be reached by crossing a bridge over the moat then following a paved walkway through three galleries, passing tall statues and individual buildings. A stone railing depicting a snake or a dragon runs along the sides of the walkway, the tails pointing skywards.
As stated in a previous blog the Cambodians love to carve and the walls are covered with intricate carvings and bas-relief structures. Unfortunately some have been damaged beyond repair, but great work has been done to reconstruct many areas in the last century resulting in the complex becoming a UNESCO heritage site. On one wall was a complete carving depicting a battle between Lord Krishna and an Asura with 1000 arms, (creatures who are power seeking in Hindu and Buddhist mythology).
Buddhist monks who live and worship there have set themselves the task of ensuring the complex remains in mint condition, even climbing the towers to remove weeds and grasses which persistently grow in the mortar.
It took over three hours to walk the five kilometres from the west gate to the east and I must warn those who wish to visit there are steps everywhere, many without handrails. However, I’ve discovered that if there are no handrails and the stairs are steep it is easier to descend the steps backwards as if going down a ladder. I had to do this on the final descent for a few steps, despite having my hiking cane, which comes with me everywhere, neatly folded in my rucksack when not in use. (Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it!)
To my dismay and somewhat annoyance I lost my guide. When I entered the interior of the temple I happened to take off my sunglasses and exchange them for my everyday glasses. Whilst “semi-blind” he disappeared from my view and I convinced myself he had gone ahead, thus I set off heading east, but he had taken a turn to the left. Unfortunately all the guides are male, have black hair and wear a khaki uniform, therefore one looks very much like another. We were finally reunited at the meeting point at the east gate of the complex.
However, the temple is spectacular. It is not only impressive due to its size, the height of the towers and the beauty of the architecture, but because of the delicacy of the carvings and the tranquillity that is ubiquitous throughout, despite the number of visitors. I lost my head for heights the day I visited, possibly due to the heat and humidity, and didn’t climb up the steep wooden steps to one of the towers, but marvelled at the stonework and woodwork covered in intricate designs.
Leaving the complex behind we then travelled a couple of kilometres to the temple where Tomb Raider was actually filmed. This is known as the Ta Prohm Temple and I instantly recalled the scenes where Angelina Jolie ran through the stone clad corridors and scaled the high walls.
The most impressive aspects of this site is not necessarily the architecture but the trees entwined in the ancient walls. Fig, kapok and banyan trees offer some shade, but the sight of the roots conjoined with the stones is one I’ve not seen on such a scale anywhere else.
The heat and humidity in Cambodia in June is punishing. To be fair the temperature does not change all year round. It is usually above 30 degrees centigrade, only the humidity lessens, but arguably not by much. I was flagging around 3pm and was unable to assimilate much of what my guide explained as the day progressed. I’d have preferred to visit for a few hours in the early morning over a period of two to three days and I’d recommend this to anyone thinking of visiting.
I stayed in the nearby town of Siem Reap which is filled with shops, restaurants, bars and hotels with an airport nearby. At the time of writing (September 2024) accommodation, food and drink was relatively cheap in comparison to many places. The US dollar, the preferred currency, goes a long way.
Being a bit of a history buff Angkor Wat comes 3rd in my list of breathtaking places on the planet after Machu Picchu and Petra. I’m heading back to the former later in the year, but it won’t be long until I return to Angkor Wat. However, when I go back, I’m going to find my head for heights and stick to my guide like sticky rice! There is a great deal more to see and learn about, what many consider to be, the eighth wonder of the world.
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My trip to Vietnam and Cambodia is one of the most memorable for many, many reasons. To find out more please click on the links.
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